Hudson Peak (10600ft), June 16, 2001
Hudson Peak is our name for the peak that lies on the north side of the col at the head of the valley above
our camp. It is easily reached by scree and moderate snow from the col, but, even though it was our first
attempt on an Alaskan peak, we had decided to spice it up a bit by climbing the west face, which involved what
looked like a couple of pitches of ice to get through an icefall, and some 45 degree snow.
Dave and Marcus starting up the 2000ft face.
At 5am on June 16 we reached the bottom of the face, which we estimated to be 2000 feet high. We climbed in
two teams of two, using the same pro. Dave and Marcus headed off first, followed by Greg and I. The slope leveled
off after a short steep section, and we approached the bergschrund. Instead of end running it, Dave appeared to
be going right over it. The slope wasn't steep, but he appeared to be crawling on all fours. ?? When Marcus'
turn came to cross, I realized the difficulty. Marcus uttered a verbal onslaught at the bergschrund, but it
didn't make it anymore solid. The crossing involved a narrow bridge several feet long, consisting of sugar snow.
I was able to make it across without punching through by carefully analyzing Marcus's and Dave's foot prints,
and spreading my body weight over a maximum surface area. Another crevasse crossing on sugary snow, brought us to
steepening firm snow that led to the ice.
Dave approaches the beginning of the ice (Marcus just off to the right).
As Greg and I approached the ice, serious amounts of ice pellets, let
loose by Dave, were pelting Marcus and me. We were not amused. However, Dave could not hear our shouts, as he was
over a bulge, and there was probably nothing he could do anyway. Marcus followed up "under duress", and I led
our rope up beneath them, moving between bursts of ice pellets. Finally Dave set a belay, and the onslaught
more or less stopped.
Dave at the belay, bringing up Marcus. The troublesome bergscrund is clearly
visible below (the tracks to left of it aren't ours - they are from a chunk of ice.
Apparently the chunk of ice demonstrated stronger route-finding skills than our party) photo by Dave Burdick
The pitch consisted of 45-50 degree ice with some steeper steps, especially at the top, where it
reached 70 degrees for a bit.
Me leading up to the belay, on Dave's pre-placed screws. Weather is moving in.
Actually, it's not, but Dave's camera somehow makes it look stormy. photo by Dave Burdick
I am getting cold, it has been a long belay. Dave gets ready to go. Beautiful
Flight Path Peak in the background.
At the long belay,
we switched leads, Marcus now in front, and continued up 45 degree snow for several more pitches, until it leveled off. The snow was at times
good, at times very poor and sugary, with a thin crust. In otherwords, very unstable underneath. Traveling along
the summit ridge, Greg plopped through up to his armpits, in a completely hidden crevasse.
Me on my first Alaskan peak. Yay! photo Phil Fortier collection - haha, always wanted to say that
Finally, after four hours, we reached the summit, our first Alaskan mountain (and not suprisingly, a first ascent).
Dave named it Hudson, after his deceased climbing/outdoor mentor.
View south from Hudson.
Dave (smearing sunscreen), Greg (peeing towards Mt. Blackburn) and Marcus (bending over, ass toward
Mt St. Elias) on the summit.
The cold wind soon had us descending the south ridge, which became post-holing hell halfway down. Marcus's crampons
were balling up like cotton candy, perhaps adding to his total weight and earning him "post-holer-of-the-day" award.
He was not amused.
Descending the 35 degree snow slope on the south side. Look like a good ski? We
thought so too, and tried it a week later. We were not amused. Visible across the valley
is the north shoulder of Flight Path Peak, which, over the course of the next two weeks, with melt out until
it is ice, and shall be climbed and called Off Course Peak. Just behind that is elegant Mt. Mildred.
Him and Greg finally took to the scree, while Dave and I made our way down separately. Getting from the base
of the face to the col also proved a slog. We realized how essential skis are for travel here!
Once below the col, the snow firmed up substanstially (there was no sugar layer here), and getting back to camp
wasn't too much of a slog.
Our first experience here left us (or me, anyway) seriously wondering about snow conditions. At times we
encountered scary deep sugar snow on steep slopes, during what should have been the coldest time of day. We
wondered if the snow never stabilizes here, like it does in the Cascades, and if you just have to live with it.
It was so hot during the day, that we had to build "grottos" to keep cool out of the sun.
Our grottos
